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Photo by Alicia Christin Gerald on Unsplash
You already know healthy plants need sunlight and water, but what about the soil? If your garden looks lackluster or your lawn seems stuck in survival mode, the problem might lie beneath the surface.
Understanding what’s happening in your garden dirt and how to prevent common problems can save you time, money and frustration. Here’s how to spot trouble early and give your soil what it needs.
Too much water is one of the quickest ways to ruin good soil. It disintegrates the structure and leeches nutrients from the organic matter. Excess water drives oxygen out, weakening root systems and inviting fungal diseases.
Signs to look for include constantly soggy ground or standing water, yellowing leaves on plants and algae growth on the soil surface. To check moisture levels, you can stick your finger in the soil up to your second knuckle. Check if the soil is dry that deep before watering. You can also use an agricultural probe. Look for one with a standard, pointed tip, which provides easy ground penetration and enough durability for everyday use.
When ground compresses — usually from heavy foot traffic, equipment or even pet movement — it loses pore space. That means roots can’t spread easily, and water and air struggle to move through to the plant roots. Soil compacted by heavy machinery shows a reduced yield 10 years later, severely impacting plant health.
Signs of ground compaction include water pooling instead of filtering into the earth or lawn, shallow and deformed plant roots, and soil that feels hard like concrete underfoot. Combat compaction annually with aeration, especially in lawns and other areas with foot traffic. Use stepping stones to avoid walking on garden beds. Include organic matter to help separate particles.
Plants need nutrients, but more isn’t always better. Overloading your soil with nitrogen or phosphorus can burn roots, disrupt microbe activity and contaminate local waterways.
Signs you’ve gone overboard include leaves with burnt or yellow tips, plants that grow quickly but seem weak, and crusty fertilizer buildup. Use fertilizer sparingly and based on actual needs. A soil test is a good way to tell what your dirt is deficient. You can order a basic kit online or pay for a professional assessment.
Slow-release options are safer for general maintenance, and organic types ensure your ground gets what it needs.
If you notice your plants are pale, struggling to flower or stunted, it could be pests, but it could also be a nutrient gap in your earthen beds. Deficiencies aren’t always obvious, but they can sabotage plant health, and adding fertilizer can worsen the problem.
One sign of low fertility and nutrient imbalance is yellowing leaf veins, which may result from magnesium and iron deficiency. You can also watch for purplish or “rusted” leaves, which may indicate the soil is low in phosphorus. Try crop rotations and organic compost to balance the growth profile, naturally aerating the ground particles. Commercial fertilizers often give plants a phosphorus absorption of only 15%-25% due to their molecular structure.
“Tilth” is a fancy way of referring to soil’s physical condition — how well it holds moisture, the feel of it and how roots spread. Very sandy ground has a poor tilth since water runs through it and plants can’t root in the non-binding particles.
Good tilth feels light and fluffy when moist. Healthy ground is easy to work with your hands as it’s full of visible life, like worms and composting organic elements. Poor tilth is sticky when wet and hard as rock when dry. It may also blow right off your hand if it’s sandy and depleted of all organic elements due to erosion and runoff.
Build better soil by regularly composting, minimizing digging and exposed ground, and practicing no-till gardening when possible. These methods build structure without breaking down natural processes.
Soil can host all kinds of pathogens and pests that quietly attack roots. A harmful element may blow over from a neighbor’s property or hitch a ride to your yard on a potted plant you were given. Over time, these hazards can build up and infect healthy plants before you even see signs.
Look for wilting plants despite moist soil, unusual root discoloration and mushiness. Repeatedly poor growth in the same area also signals contamination.
Don’t replant the same species in the same spot every year. Regular crop rotation — especially for veggie gardens — helps eliminate pests. Rake up dead plant matter, sanitize tools and consider introducing beneficial microbes to outcompete pathogens.
Organic materials are bioavailable, and they are your soil’s best friend. Commonly known as “black gold,” this natural product of composting holds moisture and feeds beneficial microbes while improving every part of your ground’s natural structure and potential.
You can buy compost to add to your property as a top dressing or mix it into garden beds, but you can also easily make your own. Select an area where you can create an organic heap or pile. You can also choose a composting bin or use a large wooden crate.
Spread appropriate kitchen scraps, shredded bark, fallen leaves, lawn clippings and even old newspaper, watering it when needed and turning it once a week. The decomposition process takes several months, but at the end, you’ll have dark, crumbly “new earth” that can supplement your soil. If you’re in a rush, add some earthworms to the mix.
The acidity of your ground affects nutrient availability. Most plants like a near-neutral pH of 6.3-6.8, which is a good balance. Some plants — like blueberries and azaleas — prefer their dirt a little more acidic. When your soil is too acidic or alkaline, you can expect the nutrients to get “locked up” and your plants to starve or show signs of deficiencies, despite the ground being otherwise healthy. In extreme pH conditions, the microbial activity slows, further weakening the ground’s health.
A basic acidity test — even using pool acidity strips — can indicate what you’re dealing with. Take steps to adjust the pH by working incrementally and retesting frequently. Raise the pH for acidic soils by adding lime, and lower it for alkaline loam by adding sulfur or peat moss along with your compost.
Sometimes you live in an area where the local soil is highly deficient, and the combination of climate and rainfall results in low-quality ground. You may have sandy, fast-draining loam, which has been killing off your fancy hedges. In this instance, you may have to work with what you have. Plant lavender, rosemary or other Mediterranean herbs that prefer this growth medium. If you’re dealing with heavy clay, try sedges, black-eyed Susans or switchgrass.
Working with your ground type means less effort to constantly amend it, healthier plants, fewer diseases and a better overall ecosystem. Use native plants when possible as they’re adapted to the local terrain, pests and climate, giving them a better chance of survival.
When you understand how your property’s ground works, what throws it off and how to help it, you can grow a landscape that complements your life and local conditions. It starts with a few checks each season, some well-timed compost and a soil test every few years. Soil care lays the foundation for a healthy garden that repays your attention by thriving.
